A goddess of white concrete watches over the harbour from atop her hill, multicoloured houses cling to the slopes, and the smell of frying rises from the lanes as soon as afternoon turns to evening. Keelung, at the northern tip of Taiwan, combines two rare advantages: a cruise port set right in the city centre and the immediate proximity of Taipei, the capital, less than an hour away by road or rail.

Docking in the Heart of the City

Ships moor at the east or west terminals, within walking distance of the shopping streets, the fish market, and the waterfront. No shuttle needed: step down the gangway and the city is right there. The train station is also just a few hundred metres away, which makes this one of the most convenient stops in Asia for independent sightseeing.

Keelung for Its Own Sake

Before heading off to the capital, the city itself is worth lingering in. Dianji Temple, dedicated to a deified scholar, fills the air with incense in the middle of the shopping district. Around it spreads Miaokou Night Market, one of the most celebrated in Taiwan: seafood tempura, thick crab soups, "nutritious sandwich," a fried bun generously filled, a local specialty, and peanut ice cream are all eaten standing up, under the glow of yellow lanterns. Up on the heights, Zhongzheng Park leads to the statue of Guanyin, goddess of mercy, standing about 22 metres tall; the esplanade overlooks the entire harbour and its container ships, and the remains of Ershawan Fort, with its century-old red gates, are a reminder that this strategic anchorage was fiercely defended in the nineteenth century. Below, the rainbow façades of Zhengbin fishing harbour make up the most photographed scene on the coast, and come evening, the giant illuminated letters set on the hillside light up above the basin.

Taipei a Train Ride Away

The regional train reaches Taipei's main station in about fifty minutes. The capital then unfolds its classics: Taipei 101, long the tallest tower in the world at 509 metres, with its observation deck perched above the rooftops; the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial and its changing of the guard; Longshan Temple with its dragon-laden rooftops; and the National Palace Museum, home to one of the richest collections of Chinese art in the world. Food lovers can finish at Shilin Market or in a teahouse, pineapple pastry in hand.

Jiufen, the Village of Lanterns

Another popular excursion is Jiufen, a former mining village clinging to the mountainside, about thirty minutes' drive away. Its stepped lanes, red-lantern teahouses, and sweeping views over the East China Sea, made famous by film, have earned it worldwide renown. Crowds pack in, but the scenery, often wrapped in a dreamlike mist, is well worth the detour.

In Practice

• Trains leave several times an hour; aim to return with a good margin before departure.
• The EasyCard transit pass can be bought at the station and makes using the metro and trains easier.
• The Taiwan dollar rules at the markets; ATMs are plentiful near the port.
• It rains often here, Keelung is nicknamed "the rainy city": a compact umbrella comes in handy.

A Final Image

On departure, the ship glides out beneath the gaze of the illuminated Guanyin while the market's neon signs light up in the lanes. Whether the day was spent in the capital's museums or with your nose in the pots at Miaokou, Keelung leaves the same aftertaste: that of a generous island, where the food is good, everything is simple, and you find yourself promising to come back and take your time.