Since 1926, a ten-storey tower topped with a clock has welcomed ships into Honolulu Harbor. The Aloha Tower, for a long time the tallest building in the islands, has seen steamships, Pan Am seaplanes, and generations of travellers draped in flower leis pass beneath it. Ships still dock at its base, at Piers 10 and 11, or a bit further west at Pier 2: either way, the streets of old Honolulu begin just a few minutes' walk away.

The Only Royal Palace in the United States

About a kilometre and a half from the dock stands a monument unlike any other in the country: Iolani Palace, the official residence of Hawaii's last reigning monarchs. Built in 1882 by King Kalakaua and fitted with electricity before the White House had it, the palace still holds its ceremonial rooms, thrones, and poignant mementoes of Queen Liliuokalani, dethroned in 1893 and later held prisoner within its own walls. Across the way, the golden statue of King Kamehameha I, draped in leis on feast days, stands guard over Aliiolani Hale, home to the state's Supreme Court.

Chinatown and the Historic District

Heading further west, the streets of one of the country's oldest Chinatowns mix herbal shops, lei-making studios, art galleries, and restaurants spanning every cuisine of the Pacific. The Oahu Market and its fish stalls, early 20th-century façades, and unassuming temples reward those who slow their pace, and food counters serve saimin noodles or fresh poke for just a few dollars. The neighbouring business district also hides the Cathedral of Our Lady of Peace, one of the oldest Catholic cathedrals in continuous use in the country, and the Mission Houses Museum, a reminder of the islands' early American years.

Waikiki and Diamond Head

The Pacific's most famous beach lies about 5 km from the port, a short taxi or trolley ride away. Waikiki unfurls its crescent of sand at the foot of the hotels, where Hawaiian princes were already riding the waves on wooden boards; the statue of Duke Kahanamoku, father of modern surfing and Olympic medallist, receives a fresh offering of flowers here every day. On the horizon rises the silhouette of Diamond Head, an extinct crater whose trail leads, after a solid hour of steady climbing round trip, to a sweeping view over Oahu's south shore.

Pearl Harbor

About twenty minutes by road to the west, the USS Arizona Memorial floats above the hull of the battleship sunk on December 7, 1941, with more than 1,100 sailors aboard. The visit, solemn and free for the memorial itself, is best booked online in advance; nearby sites add the battleship Missouri, on which Japan's surrender was signed, and a period submarine. Plan on a full half-day, transport included, to see it all.

Distances and Access

Departure Time

Departures from Honolulu have kept a touch of old-time romance: there was once a time when passengers would toss their lei into the sea while passing Diamond Head, with a promise to return if the flowers drifted back to shore. The tradition has faded, but not the feeling. Between a fallen monarchy, military memory, and Pacific sweetness, this stop tells the story of an America unlike any other, and you leave the dock already counting down, almost without meaning to, to the day you'll come back.