The ship threads its way between tawny volcanic hills before reaching the quay at Lyttelton, the historic port of the Canterbury region. Its big neighbour, Christchurch, waits on the other side of the tunnel, about 12 kilometres away — a 20-minute shuttle ride. This New Zealand port call thus plays on two fronts: a harbour village with plenty of character, and the South Island's largest city, boldly rebuilt after the 2010 and 2011 earthquakes.

Lyttelton, the Little Port with Big Character

Before heading off to the regional metropolis, the village deserves an hour. Free shuttles link the quay to the centre of Lyttelton, whose main street lines up coffee roasters, thrift shops and galleries in Victorian-era buildings that survived the earthquakes. It was from here that the Antarctic expeditions of Scott and Shackleton set out, a history recalled by plaques and pocket-sized museums. On Saturdays, a farmers' market livens up the main street, with artisan cheeses and breads in the spotlight.

Christchurch, the Reborn City

Shuttles drop passengers on Cashel Street, right downtown, a few steps from the shopping lanes and the river. All around, the garden city of old is reinventing itself: colourful shipping containers turned into shops after the quakes, giant murals by artists from around the world, and a transitional cathedral made of cardboard — yes, cardboard tubes — designed by architect Shigeru Ban. The heritage tram runs a narrated loop through the streets, with multiple stops and a ticket valid all day; it's the simplest way to get a sense of the place. History buffs will head to the Canterbury Museum and its excellent Antarctic section.

Gardens, River and Way of Life

The city's green lung, vast Hagley Park and the Botanic Gardens unfold their century-old lawns, rose gardens and greenhouses along the Avon River, where you can be punted in a flat-bottomed boat, English-style, by a punter in a boater hat and striped blazer — a British-inspired tradition that locals keep alive with obvious pleasure. The new patios of the riverside district serve local lamb and regional Sauvignon Blanc. The rebuilding has given the city a surprising creative energy: few cities offer such a blend of Victorian memory and contemporary inventiveness.

The southern seasons reverse the calendar for visitors from Quebec: summer runs from December to February, and even then the weather changes quickly — locals happily speak of four seasons in one day. A windbreaker in your bag settles the matter. The New Zealand dollar is used everywhere by card, and the lilting Southern English is often accompanied by a Māori word: a welcoming kia ora greets passengers right at the quay.

Panoramas and Excursions

From the heights of the Port Hills, the city gondola offers a 360-degree view over the Canterbury Plains, the snow-capped Southern Alps and the sea crater where the ship lies at anchor. Long days allow you to go farther: Banks Peninsula and the village of Akaroa, with its French heritage, or the alpine foothills of Arthur's Pass. These excursions take up most of the port call; combining them with downtown would mean rushing.

Back to the Southern Seas

On the way back, as the shuttle heads down toward the tunnel and Lyttelton Harbour reappears between the ridges, you grasp the personality of this port call: a region that has absorbed the earth's fury and chosen to make it a fresh start. The ship leaves the crater through the narrow channel, saluted by weekend sailboats. The South Island continues beyond, immense; Christchurch will have been a convincing first page.