At dawn, the tuna boats return to port beneath a cloud of frigatebirds, and the docks come alive around the night's catch. Manta, one of the largest tuna ports in the world, welcomes cruise ships within its commercial port, about two kilometres from the centre; a free shuttle links the dock to the entrance of the city in about fifteen minutes. The Ecuadorian coast shows itself here without pretense: a city that is both working-class and seaside, bathed in bright light and iodine-rich sea air. The city rebuilt itself energetically after the 2016 earthquake, as its renovated waterfront attests.

The Malecón and Murciélago Beach

The landscaped waterfront runs along the bay to Murciélago Beach, the busiest in the bay, about a twenty-minute walk from the terminal or five minutes by taxi. Seafood restaurants, tropical juice kiosks and ice cream vendors follow one after another; you can taste the local ceviche, encebollado, a fish and cassava soup considered the national dish of the coast, or viche, a thick fish and peanut soup typical of Manabí province. The waves attract a few surfers, while families prefer the supervised swimming near the beach umbrellas.

Montecristi, Birthplace of the True Panama Hat

The most interesting excursion leads to Montecristi, a small town nestled at the foot of a hill about fifteen kilometres away. It is here, and not in Panama, that the finest toquilla straw hats in the world have been woven for generations; the misunderstanding comes from the canal workers who wore them in the early 20th century. In the workshops, weavers work the damp fibre in the shade, taking up to eight months for a single top-quality piece, known as superfino, so supple it can be folded without breaking. The craft market on the main square lets you compare the fineness of the weaves and bring home a hat rolled up in its box. The town itself, with its basilica dedicated to the Virgin of Monserrate and its low houses with wooden balconies, can be explored in a peaceful half hour.

In the Footsteps of the Manteños

Long before the canneries, this coast belonged to the Manteños, seafarers who traded as far as Peru aboard large sailing rafts made of balsa. The museum at the Manta Cultural Centre displays ceramics, figurines and ceremonial stone chairs found in the region: a one-hour detour that gives unsuspected depth to this industrious city.

Ciudad Alfaro and the Memory of the Coast

On the heights of Montecristi, the Ciudad Alfaro complex honours Eloy Alfaro, a former president and native son, a leading figure of Ecuador's liberals. A museum, a mausoleum and exhibition halls trace his era and the history of the Andean railway he had built. The view extends all the way to the ocean, and the coolness of the hill offers relief from the heat of the coast.

Ideas Based on Available Time

• Two hours: the malecón, Murciélago Beach and a seafood tasting.
• Half a day: the hat-making hill town and Ciudad Alfaro.
• Full day: the Pacoche coastal forest and nearby fishing villages.

Taxis are easy to negotiate at the port exit, and organized excursions cover the same routes with French- or English-speaking guides depending on the ship.

While the frigatebirds still circle above the docks, one idea becomes clear: luxury here is anything but flashy. It lies in a hat so fine that it can supposedly pass through a ring, patiently woven in the shade of a house in Montecristi, far from the noise of the canneries. Manta is a reminder that some treasures are measured in months of work rather than in gilding.