The pier juts far out into the bay: 440 metres of new concrete where the largest ships now dock without tendering. The Gili Mas terminal, next to the old port of Lembar, has changed the game for Lombok. The Indonesian island long overshadowed by Bali now welcomes its visitors on solid ground, with a welcome building, resident artisans and a line of drivers ready to head off in every direction as soon as the gangway opens.

A New Terminal, a World Much Less So

Around the quays, the green hills of the island's west drop into a bay crowded with outrigger fishing boats. The facilities offer essential services, souvenir shops and currency exchange, but nothing in the immediate area can be explored on foot: the interest of the day begins on the road. Mataram, the provincial capital, is about 22 kilometres to the north, a drive of about thirty minutes; the southern beaches take longer. Organized excursions and cars with drivers, arranged before setting off, remain the two proven ways to get back on board with peace of mind.

The Island's Hands: Potters and Weavers

The richest outing is often built around crafts, which the region has made into a specialty recognized throughout the Indonesian archipelago. In the village of Banyumulek, a few kilometres from the terminal, women potters shape jars and dishes by hand using techniques passed down from mother to daughter; you can follow the entire process, from the ball of clay to the stone polishing. Farther south, the Sasak villages of Sade and Ende preserve their traditional houses with steep thatched roofs and their rice granaries on stilts. Women weave fabrics with geometric patterns on wooden looms, and buying them on site ensures the value goes directly to the artisans.

Kuta and the Southern Beaches

Those dreaming of the coast head for Kuta, on the south coast, not to be confused with its Balinese namesake. The road crosses rice paddies and hamlets before reaching a series of bays with clear water, framed by grassy headlands where buffalo graze. In places, the sand takes on an astonishing texture of small round grains like white peppercorns. The area remains far more peaceful than Bali's resorts, even though hotels are springing up year after year.

Mataram and the Volcano on the Horizon

The provincial capital offers a glimpse of urban Indonesia: bustling markets, imposing mosques, dense traffic of motorcycles carrying entire families. On clear days, the mass of Rinjani, the great volcano that dominates Lombok, appears above the hills to the north; climbing it is for trekkers, but its silhouette accompanies travellers all day, a reminder of the archipelago's geological power.

Good to Know

• Large ships dock at the Gili Mas pier; some smaller vessels still use the old Lembar landing.
• Allow 30 to 45 minutes by road to Mataram, longer to Kuta: Indonesian traffic keeps its own time.
• Indonesian rupiah in small bills makes buying crafts and tipping easier; bargaining is done with a smile.
• Predominantly Muslim population: covered shoulders are appreciated in villages and places of worship.

On the way back, the long pier brings passengers back to the ship, laden with pottery and woven fabrics. Lombok leaves that particular impression of islands on the rise: a brand-new terminal facing the future, and all around, countryside where time is still measured by the rhythm of the rice harvests. The comparison with neighbouring Bali will come naturally; it turns out in the younger sibling's favour more often than you might think.