In the middle of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, a string of red and green islands rises from the water, linked by thin ribbons of golden sand. The Magdalen Islands are like nothing else in Quebec: red sandstone cliffs sculpted by the wind, rounded hills, houses painted in bold colours and a lilting accent that tells two and a half centuries of Acadian history. Ships dock at Cap-aux-Meules, in the centre of the archipelago, and the day always passes too quickly.

Cap-aux-Meules, the Beating Heart

The quay opens directly onto Chemin du Quai and its shops: artisans, bakeries and gourmet counters welcome visitors a few minutes' walk from the gangway. Here, sea glass and even seaweed are turned into crafts, and conversations stretch out: no one rushes anyone in this corner of the country. Cap-aux-Meules concentrates services and shops, but you need only go a little farther to find the red headlands that give the landscape its personality. The nearby shoreline already offers fine views over the gulf and the fishing boats returning with lobster or crab, depending on the season.

La Grave, Cradle of the Archipelago

An excursion to Havre-Aubert Island, to the south, leads to the historic site of La Grave, the islands' first fishing settlement. On this pebble spit between sea and bay, the old grey wooden storehouses and salting sheds now house artisans' workshops, galleries and cafés. You browse among the sand creations of the Atelier Côtier, the soaps of La fille de la mer and the music drifting from the Café de la Grave, an institution where Magdalen Islanders have gathered for decades. The place sums up the spirit of the islands: simple, creative and turned toward the sea.

Smoked Herring at the Fumoir d'Antan

On Havre aux Maisons Island, the Fumoir d'Antan carries on a tradition that once supported the entire archipelago: herring smoking. In the wooden smokehouses where golden fish hang, the Arseneau family tells of the time when dozens of similar buildings perfumed the shores. The visit ends with a tasting, and smoked herring, mackerel or scallops slip easily into your luggage.

Red Cliffs and Endless Beaches

Everywhere, the road runs past landscapes that look painted: red sandstone cliffs pierced with arches and caves, dunes crowned with marram grass, tea-coloured lagoons. The beaches are among the longest in Quebec, kilometres of sand where you often walk alone, even in summer. The wind, never far away, has made the lagoons a renowned playground for kitesurfing and power kiting. At the end of the day, sunsets can be admired from any west-facing headland, and few people miss them. Photography enthusiasts will aim for the hills of Chemin des Échoueries or the Borgot lighthouse, a red and white sentinel set above the headlands of L'Étang-du-Nord.

Magdalen Islands Flavours

• Magdalen Islands lobster, caught in spring, served in a roll or on its own.
• Cheeses from the Fromagerie du Pied-De-Vent, made with milk from local cows.
• Beer from the À l'abri de la Tempête microbrewery, brewed with local ingredients.
• Pot-en-pot, a traditional seafood pie.

Leaving with the Wind in Your Head

As the ship pulls away from Cap-aux-Meules, the cliffs glow red one last time before melting into the open sea. Magdalen Islanders say you don't visit the islands, you catch them like a fiddle tune. Passengers who return on board with a piece of smoked herring and sand in their shoes understand exactly what that means.