Grey ships of the Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force, cranes, then rows of red brick at the end of a steep-sided bay: Maizuru immediately reveals its character as a military port. This city in Kyoto Prefecture, a naval base since 1901, also serves as a maritime gateway to the former imperial capital and to one of Japan's most famous landscapes.

Umitobira Terminal

Cruise ships dock at the Umitobira cruise terminal, in an active port area where warehouses, dry docks and naval buildings stand side by side. The immediate surroundings are functional rather than touristy, except for the festive welcome and greeting stands on busy days, but distances remain short: the city's main attraction is about a twenty-minute walk away, or a few minutes by the free shuttles generally provided on port days.

Red Brick Park

Red Brick Park brings together twelve brick warehouses built between 1900 and 1921 for the Imperial Navy, eight of which are designated Important Cultural Properties of Japan, an unusual concentration of heritage. Carefully restored, they now house cafés, shops, exhibitions and even a microbrewery. You can wander in freely, strolling among riveted steel beams and weathered walls, surprised by the gentleness that emanates from these buildings born for war. Walking between these tall ochre façades, against a backdrop of naval basins, creates a unique atmosphere, halfway between naval memory and contemporary relaxation.

Amanohashidate, the Bridge to Heaven

Some 31 km from the port lies Amanohashidate, one of Japan's three most celebrated views: a 3 km sandbar planted with thousands of pine trees that seems suspended between two shores of Miyazu Bay. Tradition has it that you admire it upside down, from the lookouts above the site, so that it appears to float like a bridge to heaven. Allow about an hour by road or train; excursions and public transit are easy to arrange from Maizuru, and half a day is enough for the round trip with a stroll on site.

Kyoto, the Grand Detour

The most ambitious excursions head to Kyoto, about 90 minutes away by road. The day then allows you to walk the paths lined with thousands of vermilion torii gates at Fushimi Inari Shrine or soak up the atmosphere of the historic districts. The choice comes down to this:

A Bay Made for the Navy

Geography explains the city's destiny: a deep harbour, enclosed by hills, almost invisible from the open sea. The Imperial Navy saw it as an ideal shelter as early as 1901, and the Maritime Self-Defense Force maintains one of its main district commands here today. From the public quays, you can watch destroyers and support vessels moored in rows, a rare sight in the Japanese archipelago and a favourite of military history enthusiasts. The brick warehouses, old docks and cranes tell the story of more than a century of uninterrupted naval activity.

Stay or Go: Two Ports of Call in One

Those who stay in Maizuru enjoy an unhurried day: a stroll along the basins, views over the harbour and naval history told along the quays. Those who leave discover major landscapes or shrines, at the cost of the drive. Both options have their merits; it all depends on your energy that day.

As the ship sets sail, the red bricks slip slowly behind the grey hulls. Maizuru returns to its maritime business, leaving the traveller with one certainty: the Sea of Japan, too, has its gateways to the former imperial capital.