Sugar cane built this city, and its scent still lingers on certain harvest mornings. La Romana, on the southeast coast of the Dominican Republic, grew up in the early 20th century around its immense sugar mill before reinventing itself through tourism. Its name is said to recall the Roman steelyard once used to weigh goods on the quay — quite fitting for a city born of trade. Ships moor a few minutes from the centre: on one side, a lively, unvarnished working-class city; on the other, one of the most renowned resort complexes in the Caribbean. The port call plays out precisely in this contrast. Around a quarter of a million people live here today, making the urban area one of the country's largest.

The Centre, Between Park and Market

A short ride leads to the central park, where the Santa Rosa de Lima church watches over shaded benches and shoeshiners. The neighbouring municipal market overflows with fruit, roots and medicinal herbs that the vendors sell with self-assurance. Nothing here was designed for foreigners, and that is precisely the appeal: an hour of wandering is enough to feel the pulse of everyday Dominican life, motorcycle taxis included.

Altos de Chavón, the Artists' Village

A fifteen-minute drive away, a promontory overlooks the meanders of the Chavón River. In the 1970s, Dominican artisans built a limestone village here inspired by Mediterranean towns: cobbled lanes, artists' studios, a design school, the small Church of St. Stanislaus and an archaeological museum devoted to the Taíno, the island's first inhabitants. The 5,000-seat amphitheatre, inaugurated in 1982 by Frank Sinatra, still hosts concerts under the stars. The plunging view over the river, which film crews used to shoot scenes from Rambo II, alone justifies the detour; below, boat excursions slowly travel up the meanders between limestone walls and curtains of bamboo.

Casa de Campo, Another Country

The artists' village is part of Casa de Campo, a resort estate of several thousand hectares whose golf courses are among the most highly rated in the region — the Teeth of the Dog course, laid out along the sea, is its trump card, with seven holes that literally play above the waves. Visitors passing through can also enjoy a break on the sand of Minitas Beach, accessible through the cruise lines' excursions, or simply watch the parade of golf carts along the bougainvillea-lined paths. Organized shuttles link the quay to the estate in about fifteen minutes.

Cigars and Craftsmanship

La Romana prides itself on being home to one of the largest premium cigar factories in the world. Some excursions open the doors to the workshops, where hundreds of rollers assemble wrappers and fillers by hand amid the dense smell of fermented tobacco. Even non-smokers come away impressed by the precision of the gestures, passed down from generation to generation — and by the focused silence that reigns in the rolling rooms.

As the ship heads back down the channel toward open water, the lights of the sugar mill come on one side, those of the villas on the other. La Romana hasn't chosen between its two faces; neither has the traveller, and that's just fine.

Practical Pointers

• The quay is about two kilometres from the central park: a taxi is recommended, with the fare agreed before departure.
• Altos de Chavón is about fifteen minutes away by road; combined tickets with the museum are common.
• Saona Island, departing from Bayahibe, requires a full day: book it only if the port call schedule allows.
• Dominican peso; US dollars widely accepted at tourist sites.