Brown, bare, jagged mountains drop almost into the sea; at their feet, low white houses, a few domes, minarets. The arrival in Muscat composes one of the most graphic landscapes of the Gulf of Oman, and the contrast strikes you from the ship's deck: here, no glass towers on the horizon, but a capital that has chosen to remain on a human scale.

From the Pier to the Mutrah Souq

Ships dock at Port Sultan Qaboos, in the Mutrah district. The port area remains commercial, so walking freely is often restricted: cruise lines provide shuttles to the entrance of the souq, a few minutes by road. The market is said to be the oldest covered market in Oman, and you readily believe it as you venture into its alleys, where fabrics, silverware and khanjar daggers mingle. Frankincense above all makes its presence felt: the country has produced it since Antiquity, and vendors burn their Dhofar resins to attract passers-by, so that you often leave with a small terracotta burner and a bag of amber tears. Bargaining is part of the game, always with a smile; Omani merchants rank among the most courteous in the region.

The Corniche, Between Sea and Mountain

Leaving the alleys, the corniche opens up before you: a promenade curving around the bay, lined with latticed façades on one side and moored dhows on the other. A fort perched on its rock has watched over it all since the 16th century, and gulls squabble around the fish market, lively early in the morning when the boats come back with tuna and sardines. The walk is pleasant in the morning, when the breeze comes off the sea; in summer, it is best to break it up, as the Omani heat is unforgiving.

Old Muscat

A ten-minute taxi ride leads to the historic heart, tucked between the cliffs. Al Alam Palace, the sultan's ceremonial residence, lines up its blue and gold columns at the end of an immaculate esplanade; it isn't open to visitors, but the façade can be freely photographed. On either side of the cove, two 16th-century Portuguese fortresses, Al Jalali and Al Mirani, recall the era when Muscat controlled the sea routes to the Indies. The district can be explored on foot in an hour, museums included if time allows.

The Grand Mosque, for Longer Stops

About thirty minutes away by road, the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque deserves half a morning. Its prayer hall houses a monumental chandelier and one of the largest single-piece hand-woven Persian carpets in the world. It is open to non-Muslims in the morning, except on Fridays; shoulders and knees must be covered, and women must cover their hair. Here is what you need to plan your schedule:

Taxi fares are negotiated before getting in; agree on a round-trip price with waiting time if you are making several stops.

At the end of the day, from the deck, the mountains take on a coppery hue and the waterfront lights come on one by one around the bay. The Omani capital never tries to dazzle; it lets the landscape and the courtesy of its people work their magic, and that is precisely what stays with you once the ship heads back out to sea.