The gantry cranes come first, lined up like steel giraffes: Manzanillo is Mexico's leading commercial port on the Pacific, and it makes no secret of it. Then, past the containers, your eye catches an immense blue sculpture rising before the sea — a sailfish several storeys high, a work by the sculptor Sebastián, which has become the emblem of a city that proclaims itself the sailfish capital of the world.

From the Ship to the Old Centre

The passenger ship pier adjoins the historic centre: the zócalo, the waterfront and the sailfish sculpture are a ten- to fifteen-minute walk away. Jardín Álvarez, the main square, brings together a bandstand, trimmed ficus trees and wrought-iron benches where the elders discuss the day. The atmosphere is that of a working port city, with its everyday shops, street vendors and very real functions — a Mexico without staging, where the arrival of a white ship is still an event watched from the terraces.

The Malecón and the Market

The waterfront promenade runs for about a kilometre and a half along the harbour, between sport fishing boats and the pangas of the professionals. Local catches have set world records, and sailfish tournaments still punctuate the calendar. A few streets away, the municipal market lines up fruit, cheeses and seafood counters frequented by locals: shrimp ceviche and clam cocktails are enjoyed elbow to elbow with dockworkers on break. Coconut ice cream stands bring up the rear, a perfect stop before heading back to the ship.

The Twin Bays

Geography does the rest: two bays side by side, Manzanillo and Santiago, separated by the peninsula where the white Las Hadas resort clings to the slope. This Moorish-inspired complex, famous for serving as the setting for the 1979 American film "10," launched the coast's career as a resort destination. The sands of La Audiencia and Santiago, about fifteen minutes by taxi from the centre, offer calm waters for swimming; the rocks in the area, including the astonishing Piedra del Elefante, shelter the best snorkelling spots in the region.

The Turtles of Cuyutlán

Travellers willing to venture farther head south to Cuyutlán, about 45 minutes by road, where the El Tortugario ecological centre takes in and releases sea turtles. Depending on the season, you may be able to watch a release of hatchlings on the long dark-sand beach, between coconut palms and a lagoon full of birds. An outing that families particularly enjoy.

A Taste of the Pacific

Colima, the country's smallest coastal state, has its culinary points of pride: Colima-style ceviche, finely chopped and served on a tostada, sopitos — tiny topped tortillas typical of the region — and tuba, fresh palm sap served by street vendors with peanuts and diced apple, easy to spot around the zócalo by their hanging gourds. A stop at one of these stands costs a few pesos and is worth more than any panoramic restaurant.

Practical Information

Casting Off

On departure, the ship passes the gantries once more, then the blue sculpture disappears behind the point. Manzanillo embellishes nothing: it shows a working Mexican Pacific, bays where people swim next to the trawlers, an everyday life without pretense. That is exactly what makes it so valuable for travellers curious to see behind the tourist scenery.