The stop is named Hoi An, but the ship actually docks at Tien Sa, the port of Da Nang. This commercial pier, backed by the Son Tra peninsula, serves as the gateway to one of the best-preserved old towns in Southeast Asia, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The journey is part of the experience: roughly 35 km to the south, between 45 minutes and an hour by road depending on traffic, by organized shuttle, excursion, or a pre-booked car with driver.

The Road to the Old Town

Leaving Tien Sa, the road first follows Da Nang Bay, then runs along a coastline lined with clear, sandy beaches. Halfway along stand the Marble Mountains, five limestone outcrops riddled with caves and pagodas; some tours make an hour-long stop here, enough time to climb the steps and enter the sanctuaries carved into the rock. Those who prefer to spend all their time in Hoi An carry straight on.

A Former Trading Post on the River

From the 15th to the 19th century, Hoi An was one of the great trading posts of the South China Sea. Japanese, Chinese, Dutch, and Portuguese merchants all passed through, and each left their mark. The Japanese Covered Bridge, the town's emblem, still spans a branch of the Thu Bon River. Dark-timbered merchant houses, such as Tan Ky House, remain open to visitors, with their inner courtyards and flood-level marks on the walls. A combined ticket grants access to a selection of sites: Chinese congregation temples, old residences, and small museums.

Lanterns, Tailors, and Local Cuisine

The old town is best explored on foot, and that's its greatest strength. Its narrow streets, closed to most vehicles during the day, are lined with yellow façades, silk lantern shops, and tailor workshops able to make a custom garment in just a few hours, a well-established local tradition. At mealtime, look for cao lau, a thick pork noodle dish truly made only here, or banh mi from the street stalls. The central market, near the river, adds its stalls of fruit, spices, and fresh herbs. If the stop runs into the evening, small boats carry visitors among the lanterns' reflections on the water; and for a quieter break, An Bang Beach, just a few kilometres from the old quarters, lines its thatched-roof huts along the South China Sea.

If You Stay in Da Nang

Those who'd rather limit their travel will find plenty to fill the day closer to the dock. The great white statue of the Lady Buddha, on the Son Tra peninsula, watches over the bay from 67 metres up. The Museum of Cham Sculpture holds a remarkable collection of art from the Champa kingdom. And the long stretch of My Khe Beach runs along the hotel strip, about twenty minutes from the port.

The Stop in Practice

• Tien Sa Port to downtown Da Nang: about ten kilometres, 15 to 20 minutes.
• Tien Sa Port to Hoi An: about 35 km, 45 minutes to an hour.
• Marble Mountains: along the road to Hoi An, a possible stop.
• Currency: the Vietnamese dong; US dollars are often accepted in tourist areas.

The Return Along the Coast

On the way back, the light fades over the Thu Bon River and the first lanterns flicker on one by one, reflected in the brown water. It's the image most travellers carry with them as they head back to the ship: a town that has weathered four centuries of trade and storms without losing its colour, and that lights up every evening as if to bid farewell to those heading back out to sea.