Boothbay Harbor opens at the back of an inlet along the Maine coast, so well protected that sailboats sleep at anchor here as if on a lake. Smaller ships slip right into the heart of town and drop passengers just steps from the galleries, the fishing docks and the excursion schooners; larger vessels rely on their tenders. Either way, the arrival plunges you straight into a lively scene of maritime Maine: stacked lobster traps, freshly varnished hulls, the morning catch being auctioned off.

Walking the Loop Around the Harbour

The town wraps around its harbour, and a wooden pedestrian footbridge spans the back of the inlet to connect both shores. The crossing, short and flat, offers the best view of the fleet of sailboats and the shingled houses running down to the water. On the east shore, artists' studios and quiet inns line the way; on the west shore, shopping streets are filled with nautical gift shops, fudge shops and galleries showing local painters and sculptors. The whole loop takes about an hour of unhurried strolling, blueberry ice cream in hand. Photographers should watch for the hour when the low light sets the white hulls ablaze and makes the harbour water shine like polished metal.

Gardens Inhabited by Trolls

A few kilometres away, the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens make up the largest botanical garden in New England: 120 hectares of plantings, woodland and shoreline shaped with remarkable care. The paths wind between native perennials, a children's garden and ponds, but the real surprise hides in the forest: five giant trolls made of recycled wood, works by Danish artist Thomas Dambo, wait for walkers around the bends in the trail. Both kids and adults get caught up in the giant hunt, map of the grounds in hand, and stragglers keep everyone waiting in the parking lot more often than not. The gardens are open from May to October, and a full half-day can pass here without anyone noticing the time.

Getting Out on the Water a Different Way

From the docks downtown, several captains offer one- or two-hour outings: a narrated tour of the harbour and its lighthouses, seal watching, or traditional sailing aboard a schooner. Some captains haul their own lobster traps along the way and bring up lobster, crabs and starfish for passengers to see, a marine biology lesson included in the price. Burnt Island Lighthouse, visible from the entrance to the harbour, stands on its own small island with its 1857 keeper's house, and some excursions let you get closer to it. Boating here remains a family affair: many captains fish the same waters their grandfathers worked before them. Kayakers also find plenty to enjoy in the sheltered coves, threading between colourful trap buoys and perched cormorants.

Depending on How Much Time You Have

1. Two hours: the footbridge, the docks and the galleries downtown.
2. A half-day: add the botanical gardens and their trolls.
3. A full day: round it out with a boat trip or a lobster feast at a waterfront dock.

Maine in Concentrated Form

Boothbay Harbor packs into just a few square kilometres nearly everything that draws people to this coast: a harbour full of sailboats, lighthouses, lobster, art and gardens. It all comes together effortlessly, set to the rhythm of buoy bells. As the ship heads back out to sea, the buoy bells ringing their last farewell, what remains is the feeling of having leafed through a complete album of the coast, along with a clear wish to read certain pages more slowly, some summer to come.