The contrast strikes you right from the deck: on one side, the bare desert mountains, tinted pink and ochre depending on the hour; on the other, a sea of deep blue where some of the northernmost coral reefs on the planet thrive. Eilat, at the southern tip of Israel on the Gulf of Aqaba, lives between these two worlds. The stop appeals just as much to underwater enthusiasts as to those content to simply watch the desert meet the Red Sea.

A Resort Born of the Sands

Eilat stretches along the bay, facing the coasts of Jordan and Egypt, both visible to the naked eye. Hotels, marinas, and promenades make up a modern beach resort, lively from morning to night. The waterfront is easily explored on foot: the promenade links the northern beaches to the lagoon, lined with cafés, palm trees, and kiosks where Israeli vacationers set the tone. There's a sense here of a sun-drenched edge of the world, light years away from the bustle of Tel Aviv.

The Coral Beach Nature Reserve

South of the city, just a few kilometres from the centre, the Coral Beach Nature Reserve protects a little over a kilometre of shoreline where a coral reef clings on with a richness that's surprising for such a northerly latitude. A mask and snorkel are all you need: within the first few metres, butterflyfish, damselfish, and clownfish move among the coral formations. Walkways lead directly to the swimming areas to help protect the reef. For a single stop, it's one of the easiest ways in the world to access the Red Sea's underwater world.

The Underwater Observatory

Right next to the reserve, the Underwater Observatory Marine Park lets visitors take in the reef without getting wet. A tower planted in the sea descends twelve metres below the surface: through the portholes, sharks, rays, turtles, and colourful schools of fish drift by in their own element. The circular aquarium, where fish swim all around visitors, delights young and old alike, and a glass-bottom boat rounds out the visit for those who'd rather stay dry. Plan on half a day to enjoy it at a relaxed pace.

The Simple Pleasures of the Bay

Those looking for a quieter day will find plenty to enjoy on the public beaches, at the waterfront cafés, or browsing the duty-free shops that have made the city's commercial reputation. Sports enthusiasts, meanwhile, head out by kayak, sailboat, or windsurfing board on waters that are almost always calm. Late in the day, the low light sets the mountains of Jordan ablaze just across the water: the show is free, and worth more than many an excursion.

Toward the Negev Desert

The hinterland draws those curious about geology and wide open spaces. Excursions offered at the dock lead into the surrounding desert landscapes, through sandstone canyons, erosion craters, and viewpoints looking out over four countries. The Negev unfolds a mineral palette you wouldn't expect from the coast, and the relative coolness of the mornings makes these outings especially pleasant outside the summer season.

Planning Your Day

• The Coral Beach reserve and the observatory are located to the south, about a ten-minute taxi or bus ride away.
• In summer, the heat is intense: water, a hat, and sunscreen are essential, and outdoor activities are best planned early in the day.
• The waterfront and the lagoon are easily explored on foot, with no transportation needed.

Leaving the Red Sea

As evening falls, the city lights up while the mountains slowly fade into the night. Passengers carry with them images of coral, a taste of salt, and that singular impression of having touched the point where desert meets sea. Few stops pack so much into such a small stretch of land.