More than a million inhabitants, a bustling waterfront, scooters by the thousands: Makassar does nothing by halves. Capital of South Sulawesi and the great gateway to eastern Indonesia, the city of the Bugis seafarers welcomes cruise ships in a port with some of the busiest passenger traffic in the country. The port of call plunges you straight into urban Indonesia, commercial and proud of its sea.

Soekarno-Hatta Port

Ships dock at Soekarno-Hatta Port, Sulawesi's main maritime point of entry, equipped with a passenger terminal and shops for basic necessities. The city centre is a short taxi ride away; heavy traffic makes it advisable to avoid walking along the port roads, especially since the heat is felt from the morning on. Organized excursions and taxis negotiated in advance remain the simplest ways to get around.

Fort Rotterdam

The logical first stop, a few minutes from the terminal, is Fort Rotterdam, a 17th-century stronghold inherited from the Sultanate of Gowa and later reworked by the Dutch, one of the best-preserved colonial complexes in Indonesia. Behind the low walls with their star-shaped bastions stand white buildings with tiled roofs, lawns and galleries, an unexpected haven of calm amid the urban din. The La Galigo Museum, set within the walls, traces the cultures of South Sulawesi: Bugis and Makassarese kingdoms, traditional seafaring, textiles and ancient manuscripts. An hour is enough for the highlights, longer for enthusiasts.

Losari Esplanade

In the late afternoon, the whole population converges on Pantai Losari, the esplanade that runs along the sea southwest of the centre. Families, street vendors and strollers gather here every evening for the ritual of the sunset over the strait, the locals' favourite moment. The hubbub is constant and joyful, punctuated by laughter and vendors' calls; foreign visitors get photographed as much as they take photos. This is the place to try pisang epe, a pressed and grilled banana drizzled with melted palm sugar, sometimes topped with chocolate or durian: the city's signature snack, prepared before your eyes on rows of braziers.

A Capital of the Seas

Makassar owes everything to seafaring. Its Bugis and Makassarese sailors were already criss-crossing the archipelago long before the Europeans arrived, all the way to the Australian coast, and their wooden schooners, the pinisi, still ply the waters of the archipelago. Catching sight of these slender hulls, still built using techniques handed down from generation to generation, is like leafing through a living page of Southeast Asia's maritime history.

Practical Tips

Traffic is the main challenge of the day: it is best to group visits by area and agree on the fare before getting into a taxi. The humid heat calls for water, a hat and regular breaks; clothing covering the shoulders and knees is appreciated in places of worship. Finally, leave a comfortable margin for the return to the terminal, as end-of-day congestion can be surprising.

Flavours of the South

Food lovers will take advantage of the stop to taste the local cuisine, renowned throughout Indonesia: coto makassar, a spiced beef soup served with rice cakes, grilled fish from the strait or seafood from the markets, all washed down with tropical fruit juices. Restaurants near the waterfront offer the most accessible introduction, often with a view of the boats.

At departure time, the call to prayer mingles with car horns and the surf against the breakwaters. The capital of the South plays neither the easy-charm card nor nostalgia: it moves forward, trades and sails, as it has done for centuries. It is this energy that travellers take with them as they head back up the gangway.