An hour and a half by sea separates Kythnos from the bustle of Athens, but you'd swear it was another world. This island in the western Cyclades still lives to the rhythm of goats, chapels and family tavernas, far from the crowds of Mykonos or Santorini. The cruise ships that stop here, usually small ones, anchor off Merichas, on the west coast, where the patios practically dip into the water.

Merichas, the Quiet Shore

Passengers come ashore in the heart of the village, along a bay lined with tamarisk trees. Cafés, tavernas and shops stretch along the waterfront, where fishers unload their crates in the early morning while the cats wait for their share. The place lends itself to a simple introduction: a Greek coffee on a patio, feet two metres from the water, taking time to watch an island community that hasn't changed its habits for visitors.

Kolona, the Double Beach

The island's most astonishing site has to be earned on foot or reached by boat. Kolona is a strip of sand linking Kythnos to the islet of Agios Loukas, with the sea on both sides: two shores back to back, separated by a few strides of golden sand. In summer, a boat service leaves from the landing and spares you a demanding hike in the sun. You swim on one side and then the other, depending on the wind, in waters whose gradients look retouched. Bring a parasol or a hat: the spot is striking but has almost no shade.

Loutra, the Hot Springs of the Cyclades

Unique in the archipelago, the island has thermal springs, which gave their name to the hamlet of Loutra, on the northeast coast. Two springs flow there: Agioi Anargyroi, at 36 degrees, feeds the hydrotherapy centre, while Kakavos, about fifty metres away, gushes out at 52 degrees. The hot water flows right into the bay, so you can soak in the warmed sea even off-season. Greek spa-goers frequent these pools for rheumatism; passengers mostly find an unusual pleasure here. The hamlet also has a few waterfront tavernas, where you eat with your feet in the sand, watching the steaming hot water flow down to mix with the sea.

Chora, a Balcony Inland

Eight kilometres from the shore, the island's capital, which locals also call Messaria, spreads out along the edge of a plateau. Whitewashed lanes, vaulted passages, blue-domed churches and cafés full of regulars make up a Cycladic setting with no luxury boutiques or touts. You can happily lose yourself for an hour among pots of basil and painted staircases before heading back down to the coast. Locals nod a greeting, a tractor goes by, a bell rings somewhere: life goes on exactly as if no one were watching.

Practical Pointers

• Anchorage off Merichas, tender landing in the centre of the village.
• Kolona: seasonal boat shuttle from the landing, much easier than the trail.
• Loutra and its springs: on the northeast coast; taxi or rental car.
• Chora: 8 km from the shore; there are few taxis on the island, so book early in the day.
• Bring a swimsuit and towel: opportunities for a swim are everywhere.
• Little tourist infrastructure: bring cash for the small spots.

Kythnos doesn't appear on any top-ten list and is all the better for it. Those who come ashore by chance, on a small-ship cruise itinerary, leave feeling they have caught Greece in a private moment: a strip of sand between two seas, hot water rising from the earth, and villages that wait for no one but welcome everyone.