At 11 a.m. on Marienplatz, every head looks up at the same time. The carillon of the New Town Hall springs into action, and its life-size figures re-enact a knights' tournament held in 1568 for a princely wedding. The scene lasts about ten minutes, tourists applaud, and the people of Munich go on their way with a smile. Welcome to the Bavarian capital, the urban stop on Danube cruises.

Reaching Munich From the River

The Danube doesn't flow through Munich: ships stop at Passau or Regensburg, and the metropolis is reached by coach as part of a full-day excursion or a stay before or after the cruise. The route crosses the Bavarian hills, their villages with onion-domed steeples and their hop fields. Once there, the whole centre can be explored on foot, as much of the old town is pedestrian.

Around Marienplatz

The historic heart is concentrated within a few hundred metres. The Frauenkirche raises its two towers topped with onion domes, the city's emblematic silhouette; the 1638 Marian column watches over the square; and the Gothic Old Town Hall closes off the view. Two streets away, the Viktualienmarkt spreads its stalls of fruit, cheese and flowers around a maypole painted in the colours of the guilds. You can try a Weisswurst or a pretzel here, standing up, like everyone else.

The Residenz and the Splendour of the Wittelsbachs

Steps from Odeonsplatz, the Residenz, the immense city palace of the dukes and later kings of Bavaria, lines up inner courtyards and state rooms. The Antiquarium, a 66-metre-long vaulted Renaissance hall, alone justifies the visit. Those who prefer the open air can continue to the English Garden, one of the largest urban parks on the continent, where surfers tame the Eisbach's standing wave under the eyes of passers-by — a spectacle that has become a ritual, summer and winter alike.

Beer, Beer Halls and the Art of Living

It is impossible to speak of the Bavarian capital without its beer halls. The Hofbräuhaus, founded in 1589, rings with bands in lederhosen and clinking steins; beer gardens beneath the chestnut trees offer a more peaceful version of the same art of living. You can simply sit down for half an hour, order a drink and watch: Bavarian conviviality needs no translation.

Odeonsplatz, an Italian Accent

Walking up Theatinerstrasse, the setting suddenly changes: the Feldherrnhalle, a loggia inspired by Florence, and the bright saffron Theatine Church give Odeonsplatz a southern air. Munich residents like to say their city is "the northernmost city in Italy"; it is here that the phrase takes on its full meaning. The spot also marks the entrance to the museum quarter and the Hofgarten, perfect for a break in the shade before setting off again.

Travel Guide

A Tip on Pacing

A day passes quickly in a city of this size. The trio of Marienplatz, Viktualienmarkt and Residenz makes a realistic core for a visit; the English Garden or a beer hall fills the afternoon according to your mood. It is best to give up on seeing everything from the start: the Bavarian capital is best savoured neighbourhood by neighbourhood, just as its beers are savoured by the half-litre — with moderation and pleasure.

The Last Look

On the way back to the river, as the coach leaves the ring of steeples behind, you take in the contrast: a metropolis of art and beer halls a few hours from the tranquil banks of the Danube. The city leaves the memory of a great metropolis that has kept its sense of celebration and public life. The carillon, for its part, will re-enact its tournament tomorrow, at precisely 11 a.m.