There are trips you plan to see monuments. And there are trips you plan to understand something — a culture, a way of doing things, a relationship to time and to the land that no museum visit can really convey. Scotland's distillery trail belongs to the second category. It's not a tourist trip. It's a trip for the curious — to understand how water, barley, peat and time inside an oak cask produce liquids that people all over the world open in the evening knowing they're drinking something irreplaceable.