Three rivers mingle their waters in front of La Crosse: the Mississippi, the Black and the small river that gave the city its name. It is in this landscape of channels, wooded islands and limestone bluffs that river ships dock, at Riverside Park, right in the heart of downtown. No shuttle is needed here: you step onto a shaded lawn, and the shopping streets begin on the other side of the avenue.

Riverside, a Gentle Welcome

The lawns run along the river with their paths, tall trees and benches facing the water. Here you'll see the La Crosse Queen, a paddlewheeler that recalls the era when steamboats ruled commercial navigation in the Midwest. Morning walkers, anglers and cyclists make up a peaceful scene that sets the tone for the port call: here, there's no rush.

A Historic Downtown to Explore on Foot

A few minutes are enough to reach the historic commercial district, one of the largest in Wisconsin. The 19th-century brick façades now house cafés, bookstores and independent shops. Pearl Street is home to several local favourites, including an old-fashioned ice cream parlour where cones are still served from behind a long counter. A few streets away, the Dahl Auto Museum displays some twenty vintage cars tracing the history of a family dealership founded in 1911, with a recreated drive-in theatre from days gone by as a bonus.

The Lumber Barons' Mansions

La Crosse built its prosperity on the lumber trade, and its leading families left behind stately homes that can still be admired. The Hixon House, preserved with its original furnishings, can be visited with guides from the county historical society, who also accompany several of the excursions offered to passengers. Their stories bring back to life the sawmills, trains and steamboats that shaped the region.

Grandad Bluff, a Balcony over Three States

You can't miss the bluff that dominates the landscape: Grandad Bluff rises about 180 metres above the rooftops. A lookout at the summit opens up an immense view over the river valley, where on clear days your gaze reaches as far as Minnesota and Iowa. Most excursions take you there by coach, and the detour is well worth it: it's from up there that you grasp the geography of the port call, a river braided with islands that seems to hesitate between several paths.

Pointers for the Day

• Docking at Riverside, at the foot of the historic district: everything in this area can be explored on foot.
• Grandad Bluff is about fifteen minutes away by road; the lookout is accessible to everyone.
• Midwest summers are hot and humid; a hat and water make the trip to the lookout more pleasant.
• Shops generally open in the morning, which suits port call schedules well.

The Mississippi as a Common Thread

Between stops, the river remains the best companion of the day. The riverside promenade links Riverside to trails heading north, and you only need to sit down for a few moments to watch a string of barges pushed by a towboat go by, an ordinary sight here and yet fascinating for those who come from afar. Sunsets over the Minnesota bluffs, just across the river, are among the finest moments of a cruise on the Upper Mississippi.

Walking back up the gangway, you take away from La Crosse the impression of a human-scale city, proud of its brick façades and its river. The Mississippi continues on its way south; travellers who accompany it now know that between major stops, the low-key port calls often hold the most genuine encounters.