Red brick dominates in Kingston, and it tells two stories at once. First, that of the Rondout, the waterfront district where ships dock, a former hub of coal and cement turned into a string of galleries, studios and waterside patios. Then, that of the hill, where New York State's first capital preserves its 17th-century stone houses. Between the two lies a single Hudson Valley city, proud of its eventful past and clearly happy with its present.

The Rondout, from Coal to Galleries

The landing is at the foot of Broadway, on the creek, exactly where the Delaware and Hudson Canal once ended. Barges loaded with Pennsylvania coal reached the river here; the period warehouses now house restaurants, antique dealers and designer boutiques. The walk along the docks winds among sailboats and restored tugboats, with the feel of a lively little harbour. Patios invite you to linger over a coffee or a plate of local valley produce.

The Hudson River Maritime Museum

Just steps from the mooring, this museum devoted to navigation on the Hudson deserves a careful visit. Models, photographs and artifacts tell the story of paddle steamers like the Mary Powell, ferries, the ice yacht regattas that raced across the frozen river, and the vanished riverside industries. In front of the doors, the steam tug Mathilda, built in 1898, sits proudly in dry dock. In season, a river shuttle runs to the Rondout Lighthouse, a brick sentinel standing at the mouth of the creek; the outing nicely combines history and fresh air.

Up to the Stockade

A short taxi or shuttle ride leads to the Stockade historic district, on the plateau. Its streets are lined with limestone houses built by Dutch settlers, some more than three centuries old. It was here, in 1777, that the first New York State Senate met, a few weeks before British troops burned the young capital. The buildings rebuilt after the fire form an ensemble rare in the country: an intersection with all four corners occupied by pre-Revolutionary buildings. Old churches, walled gardens and neighbourhood cafés round out the walk.

Little Finds Between Visits

• The Trolley Museum, next to the dock, displays vintage streetcars and railcars and, in season, offers short rail rides along the waterfront.
• The art galleries in the waterfront district gladly welcome curious visitors; several artists work on site.
• Photography enthusiasts will find great subjects in the beautiful late-day light at the Rondout Lighthouse and along the docks.

The layout makes planning easy: the entire waterfront district can be explored on foot, and the upper town is just a few minutes' drive away. Half a day is enough to sample both sides of the city; a full day lets you add the outing to the lighthouse without watching the clock.

A Tasty Break

Between neighbourhoods, the waterfront restaurants showcase the valley's farms: county cheeses, ciders and market vegetables. An ice cream cone enjoyed facing the sailboats makes a delightful end to the afternoon.

A Capital Turned Hidden Gem

Kingston gave up its political title long ago, and that may be its good fortune. No crowds, no rush: visitors share the streets with residents, conversations start easily in the shops, and history can be read directly on the stone and brick walls. Heading back down to the ship, your gaze follows the creek to the lighthouse, sitting on its base in the middle of the water. New York's oldest capital then slowly fades away, confident in its past and open to the river that continues to shape it.