A spring bubbles up beneath moss-draped oaks, fills a public pool, then flows in a small stream to the St. Johns River: therein lies, in one image, all of Green Cove Springs. This small north Florida town, some fifty kilometres south of Jacksonville, was in the 19th century a spa resort frequented by American high society. River vessels exploring the St. Johns now call there, reviving a tradition of calls dating back a hundred and fifty years.

The Saratoga of the South

In the golden age of steamboats, wealthy Northern families came to spend the winter here, drawn by the sulphurous waters reputed beneficial to health. Verandaed hotels and bathing pavilions earned the town its nickname of the "Saratoga of the South." The grand establishments have vanished, but the spring park, the Victorian homes in neighbouring streets and the peaceful layout of the historic centre preserve the spirit of that era, which local guides recount with evident relish on walking tours. In old photographs displayed around town, you see paddle-wheel steamers moored where river vessels tie up today.

The Spring and Its Park

At the heart of Spring Park, water emerges from the earth at roughly 25 degrees year-round, in a natural basin of deep green. It feeds the municipal pool—one of the oldest in the state—before joining the river by a short stream crossed by footbridges. Lawns, kiosks and a dock on the St. Johns complete this riverside park where residents come to picnic; the cruise passenger essentially disembarks right there. Beneath the oaks, squirrels reign supreme, and the faintly sulphurous scent of the water recalls the spa's former vocation.

Heritage to Explore on Foot

The centre is traversed in a leisurely hour: the Clay County courthouse built in 1890, an old jail among Florida's oldest, the county museum housed in a period building. A short distance away, the North Florida Military Museum displays vehicles and memorabilia from 20th-century conflicts. The ensemble paints an endearing portrait of the old river South, without staging or crowds. County museum volunteers greet passengers with infectious enthusiasm, archives and anecdotes in hand.

The River's Ghost Fleet

After the Second World War, the local naval base sheltered one of the country's great reserve fleets: hundreds of military ships waited, lined up on the river, a recall that never came for most. At the height of the post-war years, there were several hundred ships in reserve here, from destroyer to minesweeper. The long docks built for them still exist south of town and now serve as port and industrial facilities. This little-known chapter fascinates naval history enthusiasts, and call guides rarely miss recounting it.

Key Points for Your Visit

It takes little to make a good call: shade, clear water and well-told stories. Green Cove Springs possesses all three, plus that extra gentleness found in places that have stayed beyond the spotlight. Walking back to the ship along the spring-fed stream, one finds themselves envying those who, a century and a half ago, had the whole winter before them. The waters, meanwhile, pursue their quiet journey toward Jacksonville and the Atlantic.