From the ship's deck, Block Island appears as a long, low silhouette resting on the Atlantic, dotted with green hills, ponds and grey shingled rooftops. Ships anchor offshore, and tenders bring passengers to Old Harbor, the island's beating heart, after a crossing of about ten minutes. The moment you step ashore, you're surrounded by Victorian hotels with wraparound porches, ice cream counters and bike rental shops: the whole spirit of the island is contained in those first hundred metres.

Old Harbor, America's Seaside Past

The village has stayed frozen, for the better, in its late-nineteenth-century golden age. Grand white verandas look out over the passing ferries, flags snap in the wind, and terraces serve lobster rolls facing the water. Wander down Water Street, pop into a shop selling nautical charts, then pick your mode of transport for the day: the island covers about fifteen square kilometres, and the bicycle reigns supreme here. Mopeds and taxis round out the options for those who'd rather pedal less.

Mohegan Bluffs

At the south end of the island, the road climbs gently toward the edge of Mohegan Bluffs, clay cliffs dropping about fifty metres into the ocean. A wooden staircase of roughly 140 steps leads down to a wild beach wedged between the cliffs and the waves; the view, from both the top and the bottom, ranks among the most striking in New England. Save a little stamina for the climb back up, and take a moment just to listen to the surf. On a clear day, the view stretches all the way to Montauk, at the tip of Long Island.

A Relocated Lighthouse

Close by stands the Southeast Lighthouse, a red-brick Victorian structure built in 1875. Its recent history is something of a feat: threatened by erosion eating away at the cliff, the entire building was moved 75 metres inland in 1993, structure and lantern included. Visitors can tour the small museum at its base and, in season, climb up to the gallery for a sweeping view of the island's south coast. At the other end of the island, the North Lighthouse watches over a sandy point popular with seals and terns.

Beaches and Preserved Nature

The island's main beach, Crescent Beach, unrolls its pale sand for several kilometres just north of Old Harbor, within walking distance of the landing point. The water stays brisk, but July and August swimmers find it perfectly enjoyable. Nearly half of the island is under conservation protection: trails through moorland and pasture, salt ponds and stone walls create a landscape that brings Ireland to mind as much as the American coast. Kilometres of marked hiking trails wind through these protected areas, and you only need to move a few hundred metres from the roads to hear nothing but the wind and the warblers.

Practical Tips

• Book your bike as soon as you land: on the best days, the rental fleet goes fast.
• Allow about an hour of easy cycling between Old Harbor and Mohegan Bluffs, with a few honest hills along the way.
• Build in a comfortable margin for the last tender: wind and swell can sometimes throw off the schedule.

An Island You Leave with Reluctance

Heading back to the tender, many passengers are already promising themselves a return trip for a full weekend. Block Island offers exactly what you'd want from an East Coast island: lighthouses, cliffs, bicycles, an unapologetically slow pace. All of it without any staging, with the faded elegance of a place that has never needed