There are two Balis. The south, with its crowded beaches and traffic jams. And the north, slower, greener, still faithful to village life. It's this second face of the island that cruise passengers discover on landing at Celukan Bawang, a commercial port tucked along the northern coast of the Indonesian island, far from the usual circuits.

A Gateway to the North of the Island

The pier itself is functional, with no particular charm: a few warehouses, palm trees, the flat Bali Sea shimmering in the heat. All the interest of this stop lies beyond it, within a one- to two-hour drive. Private drivers and organized excursions wait just outside the port; negotiating or booking your day ahead of time is standard practice here, and distances are measured in travel time rather than kilometres, given the country roads.

Lovina and the Morning Dolphins

About forty minutes to the east, the Lovina coast lines up its fishing villages and dark volcanic sand. Its bay is home to pods of dolphins that fishermen approach aboard their outrigger canoes; outings traditionally depart at dawn, but morning departures have developed to suit cruise passengers. Sightings remain a matter of luck and respect for the animals. Even without dolphins, gliding over calm water among the colourful outriggers, with volcanoes as a backdrop, makes for a thoroughly Balinese memory. The drive back passes villages where nets dry in the sun and neighbourhood temples overflow with floral offerings.

Hot Springs and a Buddhist Monastery

In the hills of Banjar, about 45 minutes away, sulphur water gushes from dragon heads carved in stone and cascades from pool to pool beneath frangipani trees. These hot springs, frequented as much by local families as by visitors, invite a restorative soak. Ten minutes further on, the Brahmavihara-Arama monastery, the island's largest Buddhist sanctuary, tiers its gardens and its own pocket-sized Borobudur along a hillside facing the sea. The silence here is broken only by bells and the offerings being laid down.

The Temple of Lake Beratan

The most ambitious excursion climbs into the mountainous interior, an hour and a half to two hours' drive away: on the shore of Lake Beratan, the Ulun Danu Temple appears to float on the water, its stacked thatched roofs mirrored in the lake's still surface. Dedicated to the goddess of the waters, it's one of the most photographed images in Indonesia. The cool mountain air comes as a pleasant surprise, and the gardens surrounding the sanctuary invite a peaceful stroll before heading back down to the coast.

Singaraja, the Former Capital

On the way back, Singaraja is worth a stop: the capital of Bali during Dutch colonial times, the town still holds a sleepy old harbour, a library of manuscripts written on palm leaves, and wide avenues lined with mango trees. Here you get a sense of a Bali that once looked out to the open sea, long before beach tourism was ever invented.

Later in the day, passengers head back aboard with their heads full of images: stone dragons spitting hot water, thatched roofs on a mountain lake, outrigger canoes skimming the waves. The south of the island has the fame; the north keeps the soul. Those who've only brushed against it during a single stop almost always promise themselves they'll come back one day to spend the night, and hear the roosters wake the villages.