Pink, sky blue, almond green, saffron yellow: the façades of Linz am Rhein seem to have been painted by a happy child. Germans call it "die Bunte Stadt am Rhein," the colourful town on the Rhine, and the nickname proves true from the gangway. The river pontoons almost touch the first houses: two minutes after docking, you pass through a medieval gate and five centuries of half-timbering unfold in a maze of pedestrian lanes. Between Bonn and Koblenz, this small town on the right bank offers one of the most immediate port calls on the river, the kind where no shuttle is needed and the pleasure begins with the first step.

Through the Rhine Gate

You enter through the Rheintor, a remnant of the 14th-century town wall, whose round towers frame the passage as in the days of tolls. On the other side, the show begins: half-timbered houses with carved and painted beams, ornate signs, balconies overflowing with geraniums in summer. The main street climbs gently to the Buttermarkt, the old butter market square and the town's beating heart, where patios vie for the shade of the town hall, in use since 1517 and one of the oldest in the Rhineland still in service. A carillon plays melodies there several times a day, and everyone looks up at the first chime.

A Prince-Elector's Castle

On the edge of the old core, Burg Linz has stood guard since 1365. The Archbishop-Electors of Cologne built it to lock down the southern border of their territory and monitor river traffic, a source of considerable customs revenue. Its thick walls now house a restaurant and activities; the inner courtyard and the wall walk can be explored in passing. A little higher up, St. Martin's Church, founded in the 12th century, watches over the rooftops from its promontory: from its forecourt, the view opens onto the river and the wooded hills opposite.

Colours, Vines and Artisan Shops

Linz is wonderful for leisurely window-shopping: ceramics studios, confectioners, a regional wine cellar where you can taste whites from the Ahr and the Middle Rhine, with the Ahr valley and its renowned Pinot Noirs just a few kilometres downstream. Food lovers stop for a slice of cake in a café with exposed beams or an ice cream enjoyed on the ramparts. Every street corner composes a different picture; photographers don't know where to point their lenses, especially in the late afternoon, when the low-angled light brightens the ochres and reds of the façades.

The River in the Leading Role

The riverside promenade completes the visit. Benches and lawns face the constant barge traffic, with the first foothills of the Siebengebirge, the seven-peaked massif that heralds Bonn, in the background. A ferry regularly links Linz to Remagen opposite, whose bridge, a famous episode at the end of the Second World War, has left surviving piers and a small peace museum. The excursion can be completed in an hour or two for those interested in modern history.

Port Call Pointers

• Pontoons right at the foot of the historic quarter; everything is done on foot.
• Compact pedestrian centre: half a day is enough for the highlights, strolling included.
• Ferry to Remagen to extend the port call with a modern-history angle.
• Cobbled lanes and gentle slopes; accessible to most walkers.

Before Heading Back on Board

At departure, the painted façades parade one last time behind the trees on the bank, like the pages of a picture book you close with regret. Linz needs neither superlatives nor long explanations: it simply adds colour to the day, and that cheerfulness travels far in passengers' memories.