Two extinct volcanic hills, linked to the mainland by a marshy isthmus: the Cabrits Peninsula guards the northern edge of Prince Rupert Bay, in northwestern Dominica. Its name is thought to come from the goats ("cabrits") that passing sailors once left to graze here, a walking larder for the next crossing. The port of call sits right inside a national park, a near-unique arrangement in the Caribbean. No sooner has the gangway been crossed than the tone is set: the forest runs right down to the water, frigatebirds circle above the anchorage, and the first military ruins emerge from the trees just five minutes' walk away.

Fort Shirley, a Garrison Reclaimed from the Undergrowth

The British fortified these heights starting in 1765 to keep watch over the channel separating Dominica from French Guadeloupe. Fort Shirley housed up to six hundred soldiers spread across barracks, powder magazines, and gun batteries. Long swallowed by jungle, the site has been patiently cleared and restored: today visitors wander its parade grounds, cisterns, and volcanic stone walls in the company of lizards. From the ramparts, the view takes in the entire harbour, where sailboats trace white commas across the water; a single glance is enough to understand why strategists once fought over this stretch of sea. The site's history goes well beyond a military footnote. In 1802, Caribbean soldiers of the 8th West India Regiment mutinied here against their conditions; that uprising weighed on London's decision, five years later, to free all enslaved soldiers serving in the British army.

Trails to the Two Peaks

From the garrison, marked trails climb toward the peninsula's twin heights. The climb to West Cabrits takes about thirty minutes beneath tall trees, amid birdsong and gleaming roots; gaps in the canopy open onto views of the bay, the village of Portsmouth, and the surf whitening at the foot of the slopes. Hikers will recognize this as the endpoint of the Waitukubuli National Trail: this 185-kilometre hiking route, the longest in the Caribbean, crosses the entire island and completes its final stretch right here at the Cabrits.

Reefs and Wetlands

The park also protects what's less obvious at first glance. The isthmus wetlands are home to herons and land crabs, while coral formations line Douglas Bay, just north of the peninsula. A mask and snorkel are all that's needed to spot parrotfish and sea fans just metres from shore, in water that's generally calm and sheltered from the trade winds. The ruined batteries that once guarded this cove now sleep beneath strangler figs, just steps from beach towels — artillery and swimming have rarely made such easy neighbours.

Portsmouth, Across the Bay

Three kilometres from the landing point, Portsmouth lines up its low houses between the beach and the hills. Visitors come here for the market, for the fishing boats, and above all for the mouth of the Indian River, where licensed oarsmen guide their wooden canoes beneath a canopy of mangroves. The outing, short and quiet, pairs easily with a visit to the fortifications within the same half-day.

Later in the day, many walk back on their own, with no shuttle and no lineup, as the low light warms the garrison's walls. Few ports of call offer such a shortcut: stepping, in just a few strides, from a ship's deck into the heart of a protected space where history and forest have called a truce.

Practical Notes

• The dock sits within Cabrits National Park: an entrance fee applies to the sites, often included in excursions.
• Fort Shirley is a five-minute walk away, along a gently sloping path.
• Closed-toe shoes are recommended: the trails stay damp for much of the year.
• Taxis and guides wait just outside the landing point; agree on the price before setting off.