Mar del Plata Argentina

Port of Mar del Plata, Argentina | Cruise Port Guide

They lounge on the pontoons as if they had bought the place: the sea lions of Mar del Plata make up the most laid-back welcoming committee in Argentina. Cruise ships dock in the large fishing port south of the city, a few kilometres from the centre; taxis and shuttles cover the trip in about ten minutes. The country's leading seaside resort, the "Pearl of the Atlantic" draws millions of Argentines from Buenos Aires every summer; in the off-season, it returns to the pace of a large maritime city, between orange trawlers and Belle Époque cafés.

The Fishermen's Banquina

Even before leaving the port area, the banquina deserves a stop. Trawlers land hake and squid here amid the cries of gulls, while the sea lion colony dozes between the hulls, indifferent to photographers. The neighbouring shacks serve cones of rabas, fried squid rings that are part of local folklore, to be eaten standing up facing the boats. All around, the port area retains a strong Italian imprint, inherited from fishing families who came from Sicily and Apulia in the early 20th century.

The Rambla, the Casino and Bristol Beach

The city's symbolic heart stretches along the central bay. On the Rambla, a paved promenade overlooking Bristol Beach, two stone sea lions frame the esplanade in front of the Casino Central and the former Hotel Provincial, imposing brick and stone buildings designed in the 1930s by architect Alejandro Bustillo. The ensemble, monumental without being cold, recalls the era when the Buenos Aires aristocracy came down here by train for the season. In summer, the beach disappears beneath striped tents; in winter, walkers have the horizon to themselves.

Hills, Villas and Neighbourhoods With Character

Behind the waterfront, the Stella Maris and Loma Alem neighbourhoods line up Norman-style villas, stone chalets and well-kept gardens, a legacy of the early-20th-century resort era. The Torre Tanque, a neo-Gothic water tower open to the public, offers one of the best panoramas over the rooftops and the ocean from its terrace. Art lovers can continue to Villa Victoria Ocampo, the wooden home of the great figure of Argentine letters, now a cultural centre surrounded by a park.

Torreón del Monje and the South Coast

Following the coast to the south, the Torreón del Monje, a medieval folly perched on its rock since 1904, spans the promenade and frames one of the most photographed views on the Argentine coast. The coastal road then runs toward the Punta Mogotes lighthouse and the southern beaches, popular with surfers. In the other direction, the MAR museum displays Argentine contemporary art behind its concrete silhouette, guarded by a giant sea lion made of golden alfajor wrappers, a playful touch that has become an emblem.

Seaside Flavours

  • Churros filled with dulce de leche, a specialty of the confectioneries in the centre.
  • Fish and seafood of the day in the port restaurants.
  • Alfajores marplatenses, with the city claiming the best producers in the country.

The shopping district, around the pedestrian San Martín street, completes the walk for those who wish to observe everyday Argentine life, away from the classic tourist circuits.

When it is time to head back on board, the port smells of salt and frying, the trawlers return in the evening light and the sea lions still haven't moved. Mar del Plata leaves that very Argentine memory of a city both popular and elegant, where the tango of the waves is danced with a cone of squid in hand. You understand why an entire country gathers here every summer.

Frequently Asked Questions

In the large fishing port south of the city, a few kilometres from downtown. Taxis and shuttles cover the distance in about ten minutes.
Not as far as downtown : you need a shuttle or taxi. The fishermen's banquina, however, is right at the edge of the port area, and once in town the Rambla and Bristol beach are very walkable.
At the banquina, inside the port area itself. The colony dozes among the trawler hulls, indifferent to photographers, while the boats land hake and squid under the cries of the gulls.
Rabas, fried squid rings served in a cone from the banquina huts, eaten standing in front of the boats. The port restaurants also serve the day's fish and seafood.
The paved promenade above Bristol beach, the symbolic heart of the city. Two stone sea lions frame the esplanade in front of the Casino Central and the former Hotel Provincial, designed in the 1930s by the architect Alejandro Bustillo.
A medieval folly perched on its rock since 1904, spanning the promenade south of the centre. It frames one of the most photographed views on the Argentine coast.
Stella Maris and Loma Alem line up Norman style villas, stone chalets and well kept gardens. The Tanque de Agua tower, a neo Gothic water tower open to the public, offers one of the best panoramas over the rooftops and the ocean.
The timber house of the great figure of Argentine letters, now a cultural centre set in a park. It is the stop for lovers of art and literature.
Alfajores marplatenses, which the city claims are made better here than anywhere in the country, and churros filled with dulce de leche, a speciality of the downtown confectioners.
The austral summer, December through March, when millions of Argentines come down from Buenos Aires and the beach disappears under striped tents. Off season, walkers have the horizon to themselves.