African Safaris by Budget

A lion crossing the track four metres from the bonnet at sunrise. A herd of elephants fording a river at dusk. A leopard coming down from an acacia with its meal in its jaws, perfectly indifferent to you. Those images do not fade the way other travel memories do.

Safari carries a reputation as a trip for the wealthy. That is not wrong at the top end, but it hides the important part: the animals do not know what you paid. The quality of the sightings depends on the park and the season, not the price of the room. What the budget buys is something else — and that is what to understand before choosing.

What exactly does moving up a tier buy?

Three things, in this order.

Exclusivity. In a public park, a good sighting draws a dozen vehicles. In a private concession there are two, sometimes one. Nobody cuts in front of you, nobody parks in your photograph.

The guide's freedom. National parks require you to stay on the tracks and be back before dark. Private concessions allow off-road driving, night drives with a spotlight and guided walks. Leopards hunt at night, and that is when the cats are seen.

Time. The upper tier is usually reached by light aircraft, which saves two long road days on an itinerary.

What the budget does not buy: the presence of the animals. Kruger and the public Serengeti deliver sightings that the continent's most expensive lodges cannot guarantee any better.

The accessible tier: Kruger, Etosha, Amboseli

Kruger, in South Africa, is the most affordable safari on the continent for a structural reason: you can drive in with an ordinary rental car on tarred roads and sleep in the park's own camps. No other major African park makes that so easy. You see the big five, you set your own rhythm, and you need nobody.

Etosha, in Namibia, works the other way round, and that is its appeal: instead of looking for animals, you sit at a waterhole and let them come to you. Some camps have a floodlit waterhole at the edge of the terrace, open all night. Black rhino, elephant and lion file past while you stay seated. One more argument, decisive for families: much of Namibia carries little or no malaria risk depending on region and season, which simplifies the medical preparation.

Amboseli, in Kenya, rests on a single image: elephants in the foreground and Kilimanjaro behind. It is a small park, two days covers it, and it pairs well with the Masai Mara.

The middle tier: Serengeti, Masai Mara, Chobe

This is Great Migration country. Two common misunderstandings are worth clearing up.

First, the migration is not an event but a permanent loop: close to two million wildebeest and zebra circle year-round between the Serengeti and the Masai Mara. There is no bad season, only different places. Calving concentrates in the southern Serengeti early in the year, which makes it the best window for predators.

Second, the famous Mara River crossings, from summer into early autumn, are unpredictable. The herds may wait three days at the water's edge then cross in ten minutes, or turn back. Any operator guaranteeing you a crossing on a set date is selling something it does not control.

Chobe, in Botswana, offers one thing the other parks do not: the safari is also done by boat, on the river, at water level. Late in the dry season, the elephant concentrations on its banks are among the densest in Africa.

The top tier: the Okavango and the private concessions

The Okavango Delta is unique in the world, and how it works surprises everyone. The delta is at its fullest during the local dry season. The water does not come from Botswana's sky but from rain on the Angolan highlands, and it takes months to move through the system: the flood enters in the north between March and May, then advances so slowly across an almost flat gradient that most of the delta peaks between May and August.

That is why you glide through it by mokoro, the traditional dugout, at the moment when the rest of southern Africa is parched — and it is why the wildlife concentrates there.

What does the official travel advice say?

The Government of Canada places South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Kenya and Tanzania at "exercise a high degree of caution", mainly because of crime. This is not a warning against travelling: it is the middle level, the same one that applies to several European destinations.

Two details are worth having. In Kenya, the "avoid all travel" zones lie on the Somali, South Sudanese and Ethiopian borders and along one stretch of coast — none of them touch the Masai Mara or Amboseli. In Tanzania, the restriction concerns the Mozambican border, at the opposite end of the country from the Serengeti and Ngorongoro.

Check the current advisory on travel.gc.ca before you leave: these levels move.

When should you go?

The dry season is the general rule, because the vegetation thins and animals gather at the remaining water. In southern Africa it runs roughly May to October; in East Africa it splits in two, with a long rainy season in spring and a short one in autumn.

The green season has its defenders, though: dramatic skies, migrant birds, newborns everywhere, and far fewer vehicles. That is where the trade-off sits.

What needs preparing

The yellow fever certificate, malaria prophylaxis and light-aircraft baggage limits are covered in our guide to safari in Kenya and Tanzania, which also handles park selection for a first East African trip. This page answers a different question: what the budget changes, from one tier to the next.

Getting there from Quebec

There are no direct flights from Montreal to southern or eastern Africa. You connect through Europe, Addis Ababa, Doha or Istanbul, for a good twenty hours door to door. Internal connections to the camps' airstrips are set at booking time, not afterwards.

Voyages AquaTerra holds a Quebec travel agent licence. Our clients benefit from the Compensation Fund for Customers of Travel Agents, under the conditions set out in the regulation. To place your project in the right tier, reach an adviser at 1-866-628-6241.

Frequently Asked Questions

Kruger National Park in South Africa. It is the only major African park you can enter with an ordinary rental car, on tarred roads, sleeping in the park camps. You see the big five without a private guide.
No. It is a permanent loop between the Serengeti and the Masai Mara. Calving concentrates in the southern Serengeti early in the year, and the Mara River crossings happen from summer into early autumn, but on no fixed date: they stay unpredictable.
No, and be wary of anyone who promises one. The herds may wait several days at the water, cross in ten minutes, or turn back. Staying several nights improves your odds, and that is all.
It depends on the park and the season. Parts of Namibia, including Etosha at certain times of year, carry little or no risk. Settle it at a travel clinic several months before departure.
The certificate is required to enter Kenya and Tanzania, and on arrival in several countries if you transit through a risk zone. Have it checked at booking, not the day before you fly.
The five main safari countries — South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Kenya and Tanzania — are at "exercise a high degree of caution", the middle level, because of crime. Kenya and Tanzania’s "avoid all travel" zones are on borders and touch none of the major parks.
Because its water comes from rain on the Angolan highlands, not from the local sky. The flood enters in the north between March and May, then moves so slowly that most of the delta peaks between May and August, in the middle of Botswana’s dry season.