Kupreanof Island Kake, Alaska

Port of Kake, Alaska | Cruise Port Guide

A cedar pole rises above the rooftops of Kake, so tall that you can see it from the water long before the houses. Carved from a single tree in 1967, this totem pole of about 40 metres is among the tallest in the world, and it watches over a Tlingit village of just over 500 people, clinging to the northwest shore of Kupreanof Island in Southeast Alaska. Large ships pass offshore; only small expedition ships stop here, and their passengers gain a rare encounter, the kind you talk about long after coming home.

A Tlingit Village, Then and Now

The Tlingit have lived on these shores for thousands of years, and about seven out of ten Kake residents belong to this nation. Long known for their power along the coastal trade routes, the people here lived through the era of canneries, residential schools and the banning of Indigenous languages. Today, Tlingit is taught at school again, songs and dances are coming back to life, and visitors are welcomed as witnesses to this revival rather than as spectators.

The Great Pole and Memory

The totem pole, raised for the centennial of the Alaska Purchase, displays eagles, ravens and ancestral beings along its entire height. You reach it on foot from the shore, walking through a village without pretence: wooden houses, fishing docks, moored floatplanes and pickup trucks salted by sea spray. Local guides explain the clan crests and the meaning of the carved figures; their stories, often tinged with humour, are worth more than any interpretive panel. In the fine rain, the weathered wood of the pole takes on silvery glints, and the ever-present ravens seem to watch the scene from atop the lampposts.

Life to the Rhythm of the Salmon

The community lives from fishing, and in summer the nearby waters teem with salmon heading back to their home rivers. This abundance feeds everyone: the residents, of course, but also the humpback whales that hunt in Frederick Sound, and the seals, otters and bald eagles that watch the tide from the spruce trees. Boat excursions leaving from the dock or the ship often let you watch whales just a short distance away. Some days, fishers offer their catch, salmon or halibut, right on the pontoons, and the conversation always lasts longer than the transaction.

The Forest at the Doorstep

All around stretches the Tongass National Forest, the largest in the United States, a mantle of conifers, mosses and muskeg covering almost all of Kupreanof Island. Even a short walk at the edge of the village is enough to feel the depth of this rainforest: the springy ground, the smell of resin and humus, the cry of ravens. Black bears frequent the salmon streams; guides know where to look, and how far away to stay.

Tips for This Port Call

  • Landing is by small boat; times depend on the tide.
  • There is no major tourist infrastructure: bring what you need, including your questions.
  • Rain is part of the scenery in every season; so is a rain jacket.
  • Cell coverage is unreliable; it's best to let loved ones know before going ashore.
  • Ask permission before photographing residents or ceremonies: it's simply a matter of respect.

What You Take Away from Kake

When it's time to reboard, the great pole slowly fades behind the wooded point. Passengers take few spectacular photos, but something more lasting: an elder's voice, a guide's laughter, the silhouette of a whale in the sound. Kake isn't visited; it's encountered, and that nuance is what makes this stop so valuable.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nowhere alongside: landings are made by small boat, and timing depends on the tide. Only small expedition vessels stop here; large ships pass offshore.
Yes. The great totem pole is reached on foot from the shore, crossing a village without artifice: wooden houses, fishing docks, moored floatplanes, salt-crusted pickup trucks. Kake has just over 500 residents and can be walked in an hour.
The totem pole and a walk through the village with a local guide, then a stroll at the edge of the Tongass forest. If a boat trip is offered, the humpback whales of Frederick Sound are worth it. The rest of the day passes in conversation, and that is the point.
A cedar shaft roughly 40 metres tall, carved from a single tree in 1967 for the centenary of the Alaska Purchase. It ranks among the tallest in the world and is visible from the water well before the houses. Eagles, ravens and ancestral beings are stacked along its full height.
A Tlingit community: about seven residents in ten belong to this nation, present on these shores for millennia. People here lived through the cannery era, the residential schools and the ban on Indigenous languages; today Tlingit is taught in school again.
Yes, especially in summer. Humpback whales feed in Frederick Sound, drawn by the salmon, and boat trips from the dock or the ship often bring you within close range. Seals, otters and bald eagles complete the picture.
Very few, and it is worth knowing in advance. There is no significant tourist infrastructure: bring what you need, including your questions. Cell coverage is unreliable — tell family before you go ashore.
Yes, for families who come to listen. The pole, the whales and the rainforest impress, and the guides tell stories with humour. But there is no attraction, no shop and no entertainment: this is an encounter, not a tour.
Black bears frequent the salmon streams around the village. Do not head into the forest alone: local guides know where to look and how far to stay back. Even a short walk at the forest edge conveys the depth of the Tongass, the largest national forest in the United States.
Ask permission before photographing residents or ceremonies: it is simple respect. Bring rain gear in every season and US dollars in cash, and accept that the call runs on the village's rhythm rather than a schedule.