The light arrives first. Long before the beach comes into view, it's the light that strikes you: a white brightness bounced back off quartz sand so fine it squeaks underfoot. Fort Myers Beach occupies Estero Island, a barrier island stretching eleven kilometres between the Gulf of Mexico and a bay carpeted in mangroves, on Florida's southwest coast. Smaller ships that call here anchor offshore and bring passengers ashore by tender, landing as close as possible to the heart of the resort town; the crossing alone offers a nice first glimpse of the coastline.

A Resort Town on the Rebound

A word of context is worth offering here. In September 2022, Hurricane Ian struck the island head-on and swept away part of its homes, businesses, and fishing pier. Since then, Fort Myers Beach has been rebuilding season by season: restaurants have reopened one after another, the pedestrian district around Times Square has its terraces and street musicians back, and reconstruction of the pier continues to move forward. Today's visitor finds a lively resort town, where construction sites sit alongside beach umbrellas, and where the warmth of the welcome hasn't changed a bit. Many shop owners take a moment to thank returning travellers: every visit plays its own small part in the return to normal.

Toes in the Sand

The beach remains the main event here. It stretches the full length of Estero Island, wide, flat, and washed by shallow water that slopes gently outward: you can walk a long way before losing your footing, which makes it a favourite playground for families and morning walkers alike. Shells can be gathered by the handful early in the morning, thanks to currents that make this stretch of coast one of the best spots in Florida for collectors. Conchs, olive shells, and sand dollars find their way into pockets, and regulars can spot the best days by the line of shells left behind by the morning tide. To the north, Bowditch Point Park offers a quiet meeting point between the Gulf and the pass entrance, with a few shaded trails for escaping the midday sun.

The Bay, the Island's Other Side

On the eastern side, everything changes. Estero Bay unfolds into a maze of mangroves travelled by kayaks and excursion boats, in search of the bottlenose dolphins that hunt through the channels. The Matanzas Pass Preserve is explored along a shaded boardwalk trail, and the Mound House, the oldest home in the area, tells the story of the Calusa, the people who built shell mounds here long before Europeans arrived. Its terrace overlooks the bay and offers one of the finest views to be had over this stretch of mangroves.

Flavours of the Gulf

The shrimp boats moored near the Matanzas Pass bridge are a reminder that Gulf pink shrimp are a source of local pride. They turn up everywhere, from beach shacks to more refined dining rooms, often alongside a grouper sandwich, the region's other classic. Enthusiasts also keep an eye out for stone crab season, served simply with lemon butter. As evening falls, the terraces around Times Square fill up for sunset, applauded almost every day like a show in its own right.

Before Heading Back Aboard

As the tender is called back, many take one last look at this long white beach that bent without breaking. There's a certain blend of laid-back beach charm and quiet resilience hanging over Estero Island that leaves an impression: you leave wishing it well, already a little curious to see what it will have become by the next visit.