Imagine a wall of ice about 180 kilometres long, as tall as an eight-storey building, from which dozens of meltwater waterfalls gush in summer. This is the seaward face of Austfonna, the third-largest ice cap on the planet, which covers more than half of Nordaustlandet. This wild island, the second largest in Svalbard, has no permanent dwellings: only expedition ships venture into its waters, via the Hinlopen Strait, to encounter a world where ice still dictates all the rules. No roads, no piers: everything happens from the ship and the inflatable boats.

Bråsvellbreen, the white wall

The most spectacular moment takes place in the south of the island, in front of the Bråsvellbreen glacier tongue. The ship slowly follows this glacier front about 24 metres high, which unrolls for kilometres without a single break of rock. In mild weather, meltwater escapes in regular falls that streak the turquoise and white wall. When conditions allow, Zodiacs let you get closer and hear the frozen mass crack and breathe; in places, the ice cap is more than 500 metres thick. No photograph fully captures the scale of the place: you have to be there, a tiny boat at the foot of the giant.

Torellneset, the walrus gathering place

On the coast facing the Hinlopen Strait, the Torellneset point hosts one of the largest walrus gatherings in the archipelago. Zodiac landings let you observe, at a respectful distance, these colossi sprawled on the shore, packed side by side. The guides lead the way, rifles on their shoulders as Svalbard regulations require, and set the perimeter not to be crossed. The walk continues through a polar desert landscape: wind-swept gravel, low mosses and bleached whale bones. The contrast between the noisy vitality of the colony and the mineral bareness of the setting creates one of the most memorable scenes in Svalbard.

Wahlenbergfjorden and the landscapes of the Arctic desert

Itineraries sometimes venture into Wahlenbergfjorden, an arid inlet where stony slopes descend toward waters often choked with ice. Across the strait, the Alkefjellet cliffs shelter one of the archipelago's great seabird colonies, which itineraries often combine with this crossing. Birdwatchers are in their element, and everyone scans the shores: the polar bear roams these coasts in search of seals, and its cream-coloured silhouette on the dark shore remains the holy grail of any expedition. Guides adapt each day to the ice and wildlife: here, no program is ever guaranteed, and that is precisely what makes each passage unique.

Making the most of this expedition stop

• Outings depend on the ice, the weather and the presence of bears: flexibility is part of the journey.
• Multiple layers of clothing, with a waterproof shell, are a must for Zodiac outings.
• Binoculars are essential: walruses, birds and any bears are always observed at the regulatory distance.
• Listening to the naturalists' lectures on board greatly enriches what you see ashore.
• Be patient: Arctic distances are measured in hours of sailing, often rewarded by an unexpected encounter.

What the ice teaches

Nordaustlandet cannot be described like an ordinary destination: you do not visit anything here, you witness. The Austfonna front, the walruses of Torellneset and the silence of the polar desert make up a lesson in humility that few journeys provide. Passengers return to the ship changed, with the feeling of having glimpsed the planet as it was before us. Long afterward, you need only close your eyes to see the white wall and its waterfalls again, and appreciate how lucky you were to have sailed that far.