New Zealanders instinctively associate Nelson with light: the region claims some of the highest sunshine totals in the country, and this reputation shapes everything else. Orchards, vineyards, artists' studios and beaches share the head of Tasman Bay, at the northern tip of the South Island. Ships moor at the commercial wharves of Port Nelson, about two and a half kilometres from the centre; depending on the assigned berth, you reach the city on foot along Wakefield Quay or by the shuttle that drops passengers at the visitor information centre, right in the heart of the shopping streets. The harbour itself is worth a look: a natural boulder bank several kilometres long closes it off from the open sea, a geological curiosity that made the harbour possible and is crowned by a solitary lighthouse.

A human-scale centre

The streets can be explored without a map. The main thoroughfare, Trafalgar Street, climbs gently toward Christ Church Cathedral, perched on its hill at the top of a grand staircase. The building, completed in the 20th century after decades of work, unabashedly mixes grey stone and concrete; its forecourt offers the best view over the rooftops and hills. Heading back down, the side streets line up cafés, bookshops and craft boutiques in low buildings that retain the air of a colonial trading post. The many craft galleries display blown glass, pottery and jewellery created a few streets away.

Gardens and museums

A stone's throw from the centre, the Queen's Gardens form a well-tended Victorian garden, with ponds, ducks and century-old trees; it is the ideal green break between visits. Right next door, the Suter Art Gallery exhibits the region's particularly lively artistic output: Nelson has long attracted painters, potters, glassblowers and jewellers. The provincial museum traces the arrival of the first settlers and the Māori history of the bay. Keen walkers can climb in half an hour to the hill known as the Centre of New Zealand, at the top of the Botanical Reserve, to take in rooftops, harbour and mountains all at once. Another curiosity, the WOW museum devotes its galleries to the extravagant costumes of the World of WearableArt competition, born here, displayed alongside a collection of vintage cars.

The coast and the hinterland

Seaside lovers head for Tahunanui, the bay's big sandy beach, a few kilometres from the centre. The excursions offered at the pier go farther: to Mapua Wharf and its restaurants set on the estuary, about thirty minutes' drive away, to the vineyards of the Waimea Plains, or to the hills that herald Abel Tasman National Park. The region produces a large share of New Zealand's hops, and the local craft breweries take well-deserved pride in them.

Ideas depending on your time

• Two hours: climb to the cathedral, stroll along Trafalgar Street and take a break in the Queen's Gardens;
• Half a day: add the Suter Gallery or the WOW museum, then a coffee on a terrace on the way back;
• Full day: excursion to Mapua or the vineyards, returning via Tahunanui Beach.

Heading back to the wharves

Returning to the ship along the port front, where nets dry and pots are stacked high, you appreciate what makes this port call so charming: nothing overwhelming, nothing spectacular in the strict sense, but a rare balance between a mild climate, artistic life and nearby landscapes. Nelson is one of those places where you can easily imagine living; that is often the most sincere compliment a traveller can pay a city.