Culebra Bay lives up to its name: it coils inland from Guanacaste like a serpent of calm water, sheltered from the Pacific swell by the Papagayo Peninsula. It is in this natural harbour that small ships come to moor at Marina Papagayo, at the foot of hills that shift from deep green to golden ochre depending on season. Costa Rica's northwest coast reveals itself here through its softest entrance.

A Marina Set in a Tranquil Bay

The port-call has this particularity: mid-sized ships dock directly at the pontoons, among sailboats and yachts. You descend the gangway and find yourself at once in a cared-for setting: wooden quays, nautical shops, terraces facing the water. The water, remarkably sheltered, lends itself to all gentle activities. Kayaks and stand-up paddleboards rent on-site, and an hour of gliding along the shores suffices to spot pelicans, herons and sometimes a turtle come to breathe at the surface.

Guanacaste: The Sea Version

Boat outings are the area's great draw. Catamarans and speedboats ply the Gulf of Papagayo between volcanic peaks and creeks accessible only by sea, with stops to swim and explore the seabed with mask and snorkel. The gulf's waters welcome dolphins, rays and sea turtles, and humpback whales cross offshore according to migration seasons. Sport-fishing enthusiasts will find well-equipped charters, the region counting among the country's most reputed for this activity.

Guanacaste: The Land Version

Those who prefer dry land have the embarrassment of choice, provided they accept some driving. Excursions offered from the marina lead toward the hinterland: tropical dry forest, plantations and ranch villages where the tradition of sabaneros, the North's horsemen, remains alive. This region distinguishes itself sharply from the rest of the country: less rain, more light, open landscapes that sometimes recall a savanna dotted with solitary trees. Rincón de la Vieja National Park, with its fumaroles and basins of boiling mud at the volcano's foot, ranks among the most sought objectives for a full day. Closer by, some outings combine zip-lines, hot springs and river, a condensed version of Costa Rican pleasures.

Liberia International Airport lies about 35 minutes' drive away, a detail that says much: this region developed to welcome travellers, and infrastructure follows. The upscale residences and accommodation of the peninsula, including a Four Seasons complex, explain the care lavished on the place.

The Art of Doing Nothing, Costa Rican Style

It would be a pity, though, to reduce the port-call to an activity catalogue. Culebra Bay also invites slowness: a café on the terrace facing the masts, a swim from a peninsula beach, siesta in the shade of a guanacaste, that tree with the immense crown that gave its name to the province. Urracas, those cheeky crested jays of northern Costa Rica, come to inspect tables while variable squirrels run branch to branch. The Costa Rican "pura vida" is not a slogan, it is a way of inhabiting time, and this indentation of coast offers a convincing demonstration.

As you cast off, when the sun descends behind the peninsula and sets calm water ablaze, words become unnecessary. You understand why passing navigators often extend their stay here. You must leave with the ship, but something of that golden light will cling to memory, like a promise to keep one day.